Just Creations Tutorials

Drawing Simplified

2011-11-30T01:40:00.000-08:00

I have had many comments and request for tutorials on drawing. Most everyone says the same thing, “I don’t think I can draw very well”. Even though I am not the greatest artist, I do enjoy it, and I’ve noticed that the more I practice, the better I get… It’s when I let it sit for a while and don’t continue practicing that I seem to backslide.

I have always been able to doodle but I always wanted to take my ability to the level my older brother was at. He’s always been able to draw deer, elk, etc. perfectly. Though I have never been able to draw like he does, I have learned to further my ability using the method I’m going to show you today. This is the method that my art teacher used to teach me. It takes practice to get the hang of this, but if you're like me you'll find that it's well worth it to learn this method.

My art teacher explained that most people will look at the picture they want to draw and feel overwhelmed. They can’t seem to break it down in steps. So, he showed us the “Grid” method. If you use this you’ll soon find out that you won’t have to use the grid anymore. You’ll be able to look at a picture and break it down into easy steps (grids). I haven’t actually used real grids in years, though I still show it when I teach. I do however still break everything down as if it had an imaginary grid over it.

First thing first… Download my premade grids here. (They are in all colors and are 3600x3600 300dpi). Since, I’m going to show you how to draw an apple basket, here’s the actual picture I took so you can follow along. (NOTE: I have done photography for many years, so I have many props and images that can be used for this… if you’re looking for something please send me an email and I’ll see if I have it. I can’t promise I do, but if I do I’m more than happy to email it to you)

Create a new image (3600x3600 300 dpi). Pull the apple basket image into the new image (the reason for this is because the apple basket is a picture I took and its 72dpi and you’ll want to make sure that the grid is in the same dimensions as the image you’re working on. Now drag over the Grid you downloaded. For this one I’m using the blue grid. The reason is because it’s an opposite color of the image so you’ll be able to see it.

Now create a new image again (3600x3600 300dpi). Drag in the grid in this one too. (Here is the example of both images you’re working with)

Now zoom into 100% on both the image with the basket and the image you’re working on. Normally I use the Wacom Cintiqu tablet to draw with (if you ever get the chance to get one of these it’s well worth the money) but for this tutorial we’re going to simply use the Pen tool (1).

So, what we’re going to do is take each little square and draw just what is in each square. So, I started with square 2 and drew it using the pen tool (3). I then moved to the square just above 2 and 3 and drew it. The smartest thing to do here is to draw each section on its own layer. That way if you make a mistake you can simply delete that layer and redraw it.

Do this for the remainder of the basket. Simply use the grid to draw slowly.

Notice how I drew each section including the 3D side bevel on the slat (as shown in the circle). As I finished each section and was happy with it I merged them together and shaded them in gray (which makes it easier for me to work with, but you can use whatever you want as your colors).

Continue to do this for the entire apple basket (do the straps in the front of the basket (see arrow) and the top of the basket last)

For the sake of length I’m not going to show you each step I drew. It would take up too many pages and time. I will try to do another tutorial later showing this method with something a bit easier to do.

While we’re at it, there is one thing people seem to miss on drawings and this (to me at least) is a very important step. The 3D areas. Notice where the arrows are pointing? You see the side lip (3D area). It’s something you should seriously think about when drawing as it can make the difference between a good and a great element or drawing.

When you’re done you need to zoom in to 100% to check for problems. Notice here how there’s empty pixels showing? This is an area we need to clean up.

Choose the Custom Shape Tool (1) and use the same color (2) as the section you’re working with. Carefully add a shape that is just large enough to cover the empty pixels.

The next important step is to shade. By shading your drawing or element you give it life. You can easily make it appear as if it’s 3D by following these next steps. They can take a little time but are well worth the effort.

First find the layers between the front of the basket and the back and inside of the basket. Using your Custom Shape Tool choose black as the color and draw a shape as I have here.

At the top of your menu bar choose Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur. Blur it out quite a bit. I used the maximum for this shading. Click OK when you’re done.

Lower the Layer Opacity until you like the look. I used 60% for this one.

After you blur it out you’ll need to clean up the “overspill” Instead of going into this step, please see my prior tutorials which will show you how to get rid of the “overspill” left by using the Gaussian Blur tool.

Now we need to shade the straps on the front of the basket.

Create a layer just under the top strap. While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the top strap layer thumbnail to activate it (see arrow). Fill this with black.

We don’t want to blur this one out as much as we did the inside shading. Go to Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur” and choose an amount that will blur it out as I have here. I used 21.4 for this shading.

Lower the opacity on this as well.

This is the overspill I was talking about previously. There are so many ways to get rid of it. See my other tutorials. But, just to show you another way here I’m using the Lasso Tool. I went around the area I didn’t want and clicked delete. Take time to make sure that you have gotten rid of the entire overspill.

Another way to make sure that you’ve gotten rid of the overspill to add a red color overlay on the blurred out shadow you created. After you’ve gotten rid of it all, simply clear the color overlay.

Now do this for the middle strap and the back top strap as well.

Here’s what we have so far.

Now we want to shade in-between the slats in order to make the slats appear as if they are a separate part of the basket. Create an empty layer above the inside slat (see arrow). Using the CTRL key click on the layer thumbnails for the two slats that are on top of the slat shown by the arrow. Using the paint bucket fill it with black.

Apply a Gaussian Blur to this and lower the layers opacity so it looks like I have it here. Make sure to get rid of the overspill. (While on the Shading layer hold the CTRL key and click on the bottom slat we mentioned above. At the top menu choose Select – Inverse and again hold the CTRL key down and press X on your keyboard (CUT). This will delete anything outside of the slat. Here’s how it looks so far. Continue to do this for the entire inside slats.

We’re almost done. Now we want to get rid of the empty space around the basket. Choose Image – Trim from the top menu.

Use these setting and click OK.

I added some staples with a drop shadow and I’m done with the drawing.

Here’s the finished item along with the original image. Notice how using the grid helps you get your image too closely resemble the image?

If you practice this method you’ll discover how easy it is to draw. It just takes a little practice. You will discover that as you look at something you’ll be able to break it down even without the grid itself.

I would love to see your finished product.

Cheat Sheets - Shading/Shadows & Highlights: Created for Wilma4Ever.com

2011-10-17T20:23:00.000-07:00

The following cheat sheets and the tutorial posted below these were created for Wilma4Ever. Great store, great people. Go check them out, you'll be glad you did!

Cheat Sheets - Shading/Shadows & Highlights

These Cheat Sheets are 3600x3600,

click on the image to get the full size and do a right mouse click and save as.

Adding Shadows & Highlights to bring life to an image.

2011-10-17T20:11:00.000-07:00

First I have to say I do not know what happened to my other blog. I took off some time because of an unexpected health problem and when I logged back in my blog has been deleted. When I asked the person who was helping me she claimed it was done accidently. She meant to write that I wasn't going to be around until I started healing. So, until I figure out how to do a blog it's going to have to stay that way... Anyone know of a good place to get some tutorials on blog? I would love some!!!

Sorry for my absense... I am slowing getting better so I hope to have some more out shortly!

So, on to the tutorial...
Adding Shadows & Highlights to bring life to an image.

Here is what we're going to work on. If you'd like to follow along, you may download this template either here or by clicking on the preview.

This tutorial was created for the sole use of Wilma4ever.

This tutorial will show you how to take an image and give it some life.

If you look at the monster image you will notice that it appears flat and lifeless.

That’s because I haven’t added any shading or highlights to it yet.

The first thing we want to do is to add some shadow behind the monster.

To do this you will need to activate the monster layer.

Create an empty layer just above the “Inside” layer in the Layers Pallet (this is because we want the shadow to appear inside, behind the monster) (1)

Now while holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the “Monster” layer. (note: you’ll see the Marching Ants around the monster (2)

Now take your Paint Bucket and fill the area (3)

We now need to blur it out so it will look like a shadow.

Click on “Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur (from the top menu)

Apply a large enough Radius to your blur until it shows behind the monster (Here I used 91.8, but you’ll need to adjust this if you’re not using my monster template)

Lower the Layer Opacity so that the shadow isn’t too harsh. (I put mine at 62% as shown by the arrow)

Now we want to do the same thing for the Archway (arrow).

I did not show the steps here (for time sake) but all I did was duplicate the Archway layers (since there were many) and merged them together so that we had the archway shadow. I pulled the newly merged layers beneath the Archway and added a color overlay of black.

Now I put an empty layer beneath the Archway Shadow and merged these two layers.

We need to blur this one out as well. However, because the shadow is going to be close to the wall the blur should be a lot less because you’ll notice that the closer the shadow is to the object the harsher the shadow appears. So, I used “Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur” with a Radius of 36.4.

I lowered the opacity of this layer. Take your Lasso tool and draw around the inside of the archway and all the way through the inside of the doorway. While holding down your CTRL key on your keyboard click X. This will delete any of the shading inside. (We already did that so we don’t want to double do it)

We’ll do the fingers and thumbs now. First we’ll add some shading to the thumb (2)

Find the Thumb Layer in the Layers Pallet and create a new blank layer directly above it. (1)

While holding down the CTRL key click on the Finger layer (3). Using your Paint Bucket, fill this layer with black.

Stay on this new layer and repeat the previous steps for the other 2 fingers.

Apply a Gaussian Blur (I used 58.9)

In order to get the “Overspill” off you will want to make sure that you’re on the shadow layer you just did. (1). While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click on the Thumb in the Layers Pallet (you’ll see the marching ants (2)).

At the top filter choose “Select – Inverse” and while holding down the CTRL key press X. This will delete everything outside of the thumb area.

Lower the opacity and rename this layer “Shadow on Thumb”

Follow the same previous steps for the remainder of the fingers and thumb.

You’ll want to follow the previous steps to add the hand shadows on the monster. Make sure to be on the layer directly above the monster. I used a Gaussian Blur of 79.6 for my hand.

Do this for both hands.

Remember to hold the CTRL key down (while being on the Hands Shadow) and click the Monster. Use “Select – Inverse” and CTRL+X to delete any overspill the shadows might have.

Here’s what we have so far. Here I have also created a shadow from the Archway directly onto the monster. The reason I did this one separate from the first archway shadow is that I wanted this shadow to appear softer and further out so it would give depth between the monster and the archway. Use the previous steps we did for the archway, but this time make sure that you only leave the shadow on the Monster himself and the inside of his tail (I used a soft eraser to erase everywhere on the tail but the inside curve.

Notice how the eyes appear dull and lifeless… We can’t just add a shadow to these. We also need some light so it helps bring personality to the monster.

Using the Ellipse shape tool, create a shape (with white) around his eye as I have here. Duplicate this layer and change the color to red (or whatever you want, we’re using this as a guide and it will be deleted when we’re done.

Bring it down and widen it out as I have here. Make sure that you rasterize the white layer. (Right click over the layer and choose “Rasterize Layer”) Turn this “Red” layer off (Uncheck the eye to the left of the layer)

Click once on the white layer and holding down your CTRL key click once on the Red layer. Still hold down your CTRL key and press X to delete part of the white.

This will leave you with a nice white highlight on the top of his eye. Go to Gaussian Blur and apply a very small radius (1 or 2). You want to do this so that it softens the highlight just barely.

Do the same exact thing for the Iris.

Create a small round dot for the Pupil. This will be the Catchlight. You don’t need to blur it out. You can lower the opacity if you don’t like how bright it appears.

We now want to add some shading to the eye. Go to the Layer Style option box and choose Inner Shadow. Put the Blend Mode to Multiply and play with the settings until you have a nice shadow around the eye. I used 38% Opacity, Distance: 5 and Size 59.

Do the same thing for the other eye. I also added a highlight to the top of the nose to help it appear more 3D.

Now we’re going to bring the flame to life.

Using your Ellipse shape tool draw a round circle below the flame. Make sure to rasterize this layer.

Apply a Gaussian Blur to this. I used 89.0

Lower the opacity. I used 48%

Because the steps are the same and I didn’t want to be redundant I will just say that you need to apply a shadow layer to the flame using the steps above (be sure to include the flame itself as well as the base)

Since this is so close to the wall we don’t want to apply the shadow the same way we did before. We want to add more of a perspective blur to the shadow. To do this we would use the Transform tool (CTRL+T). While holding down the CTRL key you would grab the top and drag it to the right and down a bit so that it looks like I have it here.

Now we’ll add a slight Gaussian Blur to it. I used 5.7.

Lower your opacity.

Now we need to shade the monster. I’m going to be using black as my shading since I’m leaving the monster grey so that it will stand out better for the tutorial.

Go to your Inner Shadow and add a darker shade of the color you chose for the monster. Play around with the size and opacity until you like how it appears. I used the opacity at 63%, the Size at 76 and the distance at 5.

I’m going to show you how to color the flame in (It’s hard to shade this unless it’s colored so this will be the only thing I do with color).

I added a Yellow color overlay to the flame itself and then went to the Inner Shadow and applied the color F4A100 (Orange). I put the size so that it showed softly on the edges.

Go to Inner Glow; change the Blend Option to Multiply. For Source, choose Center. Add the same orange you used for Inner Shadow. Use 250 for Size and 67% for opacity.

Go to the middle Flame and use E44608 for the Color Overlay.

Go to the Inner Glow and change the Blend Mode to Multiply. Use the color C03701 and put the opacity at 75% and change the size to 114.

Go to the Outer Glow and change the Blend Mode to Multiply. Use the color red and put the opacity to 41%, the Spread to 7 and the Size to 133.

That’s it…

Here are my “Before – After with Shading and After with color”

If you’d like to have this template you can download it here.

This tutorial was created for Wilma4Ever. All rights to the template and tutorial are for their use.

How to Extract an Element from a Photograph - 1

2011-07-22T10:22:00.001-07:00

How to extract an element from a photograph

If you want to follow along with me you can download this image here. (It will have the finished element as well as the image used).

There are many ways to extract something from a picture. I’m going to try to make several tutorials showing you various ways. This way is going to use the Polygonal Lasso Tool.

We’re going to extract my grandson’s truck from this picture. The first step is to double click on the Layer Thumbnail in the Layers Pallet (See Arrow)

When the New Layer box pops up, click OK.

Grab the Polygonal Lasso Tool (1) and draw a rough line all around the image you’re extracting. (2)

While holding down your CTRL key on your keyboard press J to duplicate the area you drew with the Polygonal Lasso Tool.

Turn off the bottom layer so you just see your newly cut area.

While still using the Polygonal Lasso Tool (1) very carefully go around your truck and the area you do not want to be in your element. (2). You should do this in smaller sections just in case you make a mistake.

When you have an area ready to go press X on your keyboard while holding down the CTRL key. (You can also simply hit delete on your keyboard.

You will have to be very careful of the hidden areas like I have here. You don’t want to miss them. I always zoom in at 100% just to make sure I don’t miss anything.

So far so good? Even though you can’t see it there might be some left over portions you don’t want. We need to add a stroke to find them.

Double click on the Layer Thumbnail to bring up the Layer Style Options. Choose Stroke and choose a color that’s totally opposite of the item you’re working on. Since there isn’t blue on my truck I chose it. Put the size to at least 10. (Depending on the size of your image). Click OK. Now go all around your image to make sure there aren’t any spots or parts. Clean them up the same way you did above using the Polygonal Lasso Tool. When you’re done with this simply do a Right Mouse Click over the Layer in the Layers Pallet and choose “Clear Layer Style”.

Now notice how other items that were in the picture are causing the color problems for the truck (the tire has red and yellow colors on it). (1)

We want to use a couple tools to fix this but we don’t want to cause Spill Over into the transparent part of the image so we need to Lock the Transparent Pixels. To do this, simply push in the Lock icon on the top of your Layers Pallet (while on the layer you want locked). (2). Now we can paint and not worry about painting in the transparent part of the image.

Grab your paintbrush (1). Change the Mode to Color (2) and the Opacity to% (3). Before you start painting you’ll want to hold down the ALT key on your keyboard. This will change the curser into the eyedropper. Simply click on the color you want to paint with. This is called Sampling. You’ll want to do this many times as you’re painting since even the red has various shades of it. Now simply start painting in the areas you want to fix the colors of.

There is one problem with doing this and that is with the colors Black and White. They don’t turn out nice. Notice how my tire turned out grey instead? These colors are better done using the Burn and Dodge Tools.

For Whites you’d want to use the Dodge Tool with the Range at Highlights and the Exposure at 50%

For Blacks (which we’re doing) you’ll want to use the Burn tool (1) with the Range at Midtones (2) and the Exposure at 50%

Now go over the tires until you like how they appear. Here is my results.

Once you’re satisfied with the edges you’ll want to check for blown out highlights. Notice how the flash of my camera put the highlights on the truck? Though you want catchlight’s in people’s eyes, you don’t want this on your elements. We can easily fix this with the Patch Tool

Grab your Patch Tool and make sure that Source is checked (top menu bar)

Draw around the blown out area (1). Drag this to an area that is perfect (2) and release.

See? Much better… Now continue doing this for the remainder of your image where it needs fixing. Sometimes it’s not blown out highlights but dirt or ??? (I have to say, I’m amazed at the stuff my grandson gets in his toys… cookies… you name it) LOL!!

When you’re done it’s time to create a new image to pull this into. Your photograph will be at 72 DPI but for scrapbooking people use 300DPI. So I created a new image 3600x3600 300DPI.

Now you’ll want to grab the Layer Thumbnail (1) of your image and drag it over to the new image (2).

The next step is to trim away all the empty space outside the truck. To do this you go to Image – Trim from the top menu bar.

When the dialog box opens make sure it looks like this one and click OK.

Looks better… Not so much empty space… Now we’re going to fix the coloring

(BTW… I didn’t take time to do the rest of the blown out highlights for this tutorial because I wanted to make sure it was online)

Now from the top menu bar choose Image – Adjustments – Hue/Saturation

Make sure that Colorize is not checked and that Preview is.

Play with the sliders until you like the results.

Here is my finished image. You can download my finished element here. (BTW – you’re welcome to use this as CU4CU or anyway you’d like. I do not put restrictions on my extracted elements).

Creating a Glossy Frame

2011-07-21T17:34:00.001-07:00

Making something appear glossy.

Today I’m going to show you how to take an element and make it appear as if it’s glossy instead of flat. I did this with a button in a previous tutorial but this time I’m going to show you a bit more.

If you’d like to download the template that goes along with this tutorial you can do so here!

First open your image. If you’re not using the template that goes with this tutorial you’ll want to adjust the sizes according to what looks best with the size of your image. The size of the template I’m using is 3600x3600 300 DPI.

Notice how the frame appears flat? We’re going to fix this… But first... a slight lecture ;)

When I first started doing this I asked my husband what was wrong with my images, why did they appear flat looking… He gave me a lecture on lights and shadows… I’m going to give you the condensed version because it changed how I look at everything.

In order to make something appear 3D you have to have both shadows and lights. If you only had shadows it would appear too dark and flat. If you had too much light it would appear too light and still flat. You wouldn’t be able to see definition. So… take a ball or something and set it by a window and watch how the sun lights up part of it and the shadows appear on parts of it. Now shut the blinds and turn off the lights and you’ll see how you can’t define the ball… Take the same ball and place it directly in the sunlight and you’ll see how the light makes it too hard to define… Also, when doing this notice that some of the highlights are softer and some are not. This is because the closer the light to the object the harsher the highlight will appear. The same theory goes with the shading.

Ok… lecture over… let’s get back to the tutorial.

We’re going to add some highlights first. Grab your Ellipse tool and draw a white (FFFFFF) circle out just slightly larger than the hole. (Hold the shift key down while drawing out the shape to get a perfect circle).

While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard press the J to duplicate your new shape.

Change the color to any color you want (it doesn’t matter what color you use since we’re only using this as a guide and it will be deleted when we’re done).

Move this new shape up a bit so that you see the highlight as I have it shown.

Do a right mouse clock over both shapes in the Layers Pallet and choose "Rasterize Shapes"

Turn off this shape (2). Now go back to the highlight (1) and click once to make sure you’re on this layer. Now while holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the duplicated shape (2). This should activate your shape (Marching Ants) (3).

Now while holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard press the X (Cut). This will delete the active part and leave a nice shape for the highlight.

Rename your new shape to Frame highlight and duplicate this layer (CTRL+J). (1 and 2).

Now go to the second highlight (2) and transform it (CTRL+T). Once you’ve done that do a right mouse click over the image and choose “Rotate 180 from the menu (3).

Since it’s now a bit too large for what we want we will click on the layer and while holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the layer thumbnail in the layers pallet to activate it.

Now from the top menu choose Select – Modify – Contract and enter 15.

Now choose from the top menu Select – Inverse and while holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard press X. This will delete the outside of the highlight so it will be shrunk in some.

Now we want to blur out this new smaller highlight. Choose from the top menu “Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur” and choose 3. Click OK.

Now we want to blur out the larger highlight. Choose that layer from the layers pallet and choose Gaussian Blur from the Filter menu again but this time choose to blur it by 6. Click OK.

Now we want to add some color to the frame. Double click on the layers thumbnail in the Layers Pallet (see arrow) to bring up the Layer Style Option Box. Choose the Color Overlay and choose a color you like. We are not done though… Now we’re going to add the shading.

Choose Inner Shadow and choose a slightly darker shade of the color you chose for the Color Overlay. Now make sure that your Blend Mode is on Multiply and put your Angle to 120, your Distance and Choke are both 0, and your Size is 250. Now we want to go to the Inner Glow section.

From here we want to use the same color you chose for the Inner Shadow. Change the Blend Mode to Linear Burn and put the Opacity to 31. Make sure your Choke is at 0 and put your size to 250. Now you can click OK.

If you turn off both the Frame Highlights in the Layers Pallet you’ll notice how it appears 3D but not glossy. This is because you’ve added the shading around the edges and the top part is lighter so it will serve as the highlights… This is fine if you are not wanting a more shiny look.

Turn back on your Frame Highlights. Notice the difference?

So now we want to add a bit of soft highlighting to the frame. Using your Ellipse shape tool draw out an oval in white as I have done here.

Now from the top menu choose Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur and put the size to 250. Click OK.

Turn off this new shape (1).

While still on this layer (1) hold your CTRL key and click once on the Layers Thumbnail (2).

This will activate your layer (Marching Ants).

While holding down the CTRL key press J to duplicate the shape in the activated shape. (Marching Ants). This will cause the highlight not be spilled over into the transparent parts of the image.

Rename this layer to Frame Highlight 2. Go to the Layers Blend Mode and change it to Soft Light (1). Now lower the opacity to 50% (2).

That’s it… your frame should appear as if it’s 3D and glossy.

Downlad my example and the Template to follow along here!

I would love to see what you’ve created using this tutorial.

justcreations@ymail.com

Thank you!

Justie

Create a Flower Decoration - Plus Free Supplies for Tutorial provided!

2011-04-13T12:23:00.000-07:00

Create a Flower Decoration

(Using Papers/Shapes & the Spherize Filter)

You can download the supplies used in this tutorial here!

They are in PSD, PNG and PSP Format. (CU4CU OK)

Open up the "JC_FlowerBase1_Template.PSD"

Highlight the bottom layer "Base"

Open the "JC_HeartsBG.jpg" that came with this tutorial.

Drag it over to the "JC_FlowerBase1" document.

(Make sure that it's on the layer right above the "Base"

Turn off the new Layer (1)

Make sure you're on this layer (1)

While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click on the layer named "Base"

You should see the active layer (marching ants) (2).

While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard press the J Key (CTRL+J)

This duplicates the active areas only.

Here is what it looks like so far.

Now we're going to use the Spherize filter.

On the Top Menu Bar click on Filter.

Then click on Blur and then Gaussian Blur.

Use the settings I have

Amount: 100%

Mode: Normal

Click OK.

Turn off this layer (1)

Now while holding down the CTRL key on your Keyboard click on the "Base" layer to activate it (Marching Ants - 2)

Now we need to duplicate it (CTRL+J)

Rename your new layer to "Base Overlay" (1)

Highlight the layers you have now turned off (2) and delete these.

(right mouse click - delete)

Now we're going to use the Blend Options to give it some shading.

Since there are two colors being used we don't want to do this on the original Overlay we created.

So, turn on the Shadows layer I have in the file (I have it off so you can see what you're doing)

Basically all I did to make this layer was duplicate the Base layer.

In the upper right corner you'll see the "Fill" slider. Turn this to 0.

Now double click on the layer thumbnail to bring up the Blend Options (Arrow)

Go to the Inner Shadow Tab and choose the Color #545454

Change the Blend Mode to "Linear Burn"

Use these settings

Opacity: 69%

Angle: 120 (Check "Use Global Light")

Distance: 5

Choke: 0

Size: 226

We're not done yet...

Now go to the Inner Shadow Tab.

Change the Blend Mode to Linear Burn

Use the Color #545454

and use these settings

Opacity: 20%

Noise: 0

Source: Edge

Choke: 0

Size: 174

Now click OK

Now we want to add some stripes to the "Middle" layer.

Choose the Rectangle Tool (1)

Use the settings I have here (2)

Choose a color you want the stripes to be.

Draw out a stripe (1)

Duplicate it 6 more times and space them out as I have here (1)

Don't worry about making them evenly spaced. We'll fix that right now.

Highlight all the stripes in your layers pallet (2)

You'll need to change your curser from the "Shape" tool to the Normal tool to do this next stop.

At the top you'll see the align menu (Window - Align) if you don't.

Choose the one that says "Distribute Vertical".

Now merge all the Stripe layers (CTRL+E)

Now we're going to Spherize again.

Go to Filter - Spherize and use the same settings you did above.

Now we want to Transform the stripes to make them almost the same size as the Middle layer.

CTRL+T to transform. Bring the stripes in like I have.

Click Enter to apply the Transform when you're done.

Turn off the stripes (1)

Now while holding down your CTRL key on your keyboard click on the Middle Layer (2)

Now we need to duplicate (CTRL+J).

Rename this layer to Stripes and Delete the layer beneath.

Now we need to color the Middle. Double click on the Layer thumbnail.

Go to the Color Overlay tab and choose a color you like.

Click OK when you're done.

Now turn on the Shadow layer that is above the Middle Layer (2)

Do a Right Mouse Click on the Shadlow layer we fixed below (1)

Choose "Copy Layer Style"

Now go to the Shadow layer we just turned on (2)

Do a Right Mouse Click and choose "Paste Layer Style"

Here it is so far.

Now we're going to add some dots to the Middle Circle.

Choose the Elipse Tool and choose a color you want to use.

Draw out a circle (holding down the Shift while drawing the circle will make it a perfect circle)

Duplicate this many times as I have (1) and space them out as I have (1)

Don't worry about making them even... We'll do that next

Highlight all the dots in the layers pallet (2)

Change your curser from the Shapes tool to the Normal tool.

Now you should see the Align tools at the top. Choose the "Distribute Horizontal".

Now merge all the dots (CTRL+E) while they are still highlighted.

Duplicate the dots and bring down below and set them so they are like mine.

Do this several more times until you get them like I have here. (1)

Highlight all the dots (2) and merge (CTRL+E)

Now we want to Spherize the dots.

Go to Filter - Spherize and use the same settings we did previously.

Use the CTRL+T to shrink the dots in so they are a bit larger then the Middle Dot.

Hit Enter when you're done.

Turn off this layer (2)

While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click on the Middle Dot (1) to activate the layer.

Now duplicate "CTRL+J"

Here it is so far.

Now we want to color the Middle Dot.

Click on the Layer Thumbnail to bring up the Blend Options

Go to the Color Overlay tab and choose a color you like.

Click OK when you're done.

I decided to change the dots to a different color so I used the same steps above and changed the Color Overlay of the dots.

Now we need to apply the shading.

Go to the last Shadow we did (1) and do a Right Mouse click and choose "Copy Layer Style"

Now go to the Shadow layer for the Middle Dot (2). Turn it on and do a Right Mouse Click and Choose "Paste Layer Style"

Here is the finished product.

I would love to see what you create with this.

If you'd like to have your finished producted featured with this tutorial please email me a copy of the finished product!

Thank you,

Justie

Just Creations

justcreations@ymail.com

Here is the supplies for this tutorial, along with 2 examples I made using this tutorial.

You can download this CU4CU freebie here!

Make a Glossy Button - Template Supplies Included for Free (CU OK)

2011-04-02T10:58:00.000-07:00

Today we're going to make a Glossy Button.

This tutorial was written for Susan McGregor, owner of Digi Style Designs

You can download the button for this tutorial by emailing me and I'll email it to you.
(I'm sorry to have to do it this way but I'm having some problems uploading to MediaFire right now and can't seem to get his link to work... I hope to have the problem fixed soon... But in the meantime, my email is justcreations@ymail.com)
(It is CU Friendly and includes the PSD, PSP and PNG formats)

Open the file JC_Button20_Template

Here’s the button. It’s flat and boring.

We need to add some shading and highlights to help it appear more realistic.

First we’ll start by adding some shadows.

Hold down your CTRL button and click on the Button Outer Ring layer’s Thumbnail (as indicated by the arrow)

This should activate your layer (you’ll see the marching ants).

Now go to the top menu bar and choose “Select – Modify – Contract” (1)
Choose 100 as your contract pixel #.
Click OK

Go to the top menu again and choose “Select – Inverse”
Now do a CTRL+J on your keyboard (This will duplicate the selected area)

Rename this layer to “Shadow” and double click on the Layer Thumbnail to bring up the Blend Options (See arrow)

Go to the Color Overlay Tab and choose black as your color. Click OK

Go to the top menu bar and select “Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur”

Choose a Radius of 75 and click OK

This softens out your shadow so it blends in.

Since we don’t want the Shadow to spill onto the transparent parts of the image we’ll want to clip this.

We’re going to turn off the Shadow Layer (1)

Hold down your CTRL key and click once on the Button Outer Ring (2)

You should see that the layer is now active (Marching Ants) (3).

Do the CTRL+J on your keyboard to duplicate the Shadow so it’s the same exact shape as the Button Outer Ring.

Rename this layer to Shadow (1) and delete the original Shadow Layer (2).

Now you’ll notice the shadow is on both the outside as well as the inside of the button.

This is not what we want so we need to fix that before we move on.

Choose the Marquee Tool (1) and draw a circle around the button so that it only surrounds the inner shadow (2).
Use CTRL+X on your keyboard (CUT).

This will delete the inner shadow and leave us the outside shadow.

It’s still a little harsh so let’s lower the opacity of the Shadow layer. I’ve lowered it to 50% but if you want the shadow to be less or more you’ll have to change my settings to best suit your taste.

Now we want to add a shadow to the inside buttons.

While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the Button Inside layer.

You should see the marching ants around this layer.

Now click on Select – Modify – Contract (1)

Choose 50 as your Contract Pixels. (2). Click OK.

Now go back to Select and choose Inverse.

Now we want to color this layer as we did previously.
Double click on this layer to bring up the Blend Mode Options.

Change the Color Overlay to Black and click OK

From the top menu bar choose “Filter – Blur – Gaussian Blur”

Choose a Radius of 75 Pixels. Click OK

Turn off this layer (1)

Highlight this new layer (1)
While holding down the CTRL key on your keyboard click on the Button Inside Layer (2).
This will activate your layer (Marching Ants)
Use your keyboard and do the CTRL+J (Duplicate).

You’ll want to lower the opacity of this shadow as well. I chose 64%, but again, it’s up to your taste as to how much or little you want the shadows showing.

Now we’re going to add some Highlights to the Button.

Choose the Ellipse Tool and set your foreground color to white.

Draw a large round shape out like I have here.

Make sure you’re on the layer right above the Button Outer Ring.

Duplicate this layer.

Change the color of the Duplicated shape. I chose red because it’s easy to see.

You can use whatever color you want, we’re not going to be keeping this layer.

We’re using it as a clipping template.

Bring the red shape down a bit so that you can see only a crescent sized area of the white.

Make it look like I have here.

If you haven’t Rasterized your layers (as I hadn’t in the previous steps) you’ll want to do a Right Mouse Click over the Layers and click on “Rasterize Layer”.

Turn off the Red Layer (1)

Highlight the Original White Shape (2). While holding down your CTRL key on your keyboard click once on the Red Layer Thumbnail (1).
Using your Keyboard hold the CTRL key and press X (Delete).

Change the name of the layer to Highlight 1.
Here is your highlight so far.
Notice how it starts to make it appear glossy?

We’re not done though…

Duplicate your Highlight 1 and bring it over the middle section as I have.

You’ll need to shrink it in.

I’ve added some Highlights to the Layers Pallet here.

They are in the PSD file as well…

I didn’t go into creating them with this tutorial for time sake.

I will do another tutorial on that soon.

Click on Highlight 3 in the Layers Pallet (1)

This is the Highlight that is in the crease of the Button Holes. (2)
Change the Blend Mode to Soft Light (3)

Now locate the Shadow layer for the Button Holes (1 & 2)

Change the Layer Blend Mode to Multiply (3). This won’t look great until we add some color to the button. We’re going to do that next.

Double click on the Button Outer Ring to bring up the Blend Mode Options for this layer.

Choose Color Overlay and pick a color you want for the button. I’ve picked a purple.

Click OK when you’re done.
Now do the same thing for the Button Inside Layer.

Now go back to the Button Hole Shadow and lower the opacity a little. Here I’ve put it at 48%.

Here is the glossy button…

If you like it you can stop. However, if you think the highlights are a little brash go to the next step.

Choose Highlight 1 (1) and change the blend mode to Soft Light (2)

That’s it.

If you have any questions, please send me an email justcreations@ymail.com

Thank you for trying my tutorial.

Justie
Just Creations

How to Make Swirl Designs (and Freebie Examples at End of Tutorial)

2011-03-31T00:24:00.000-07:00

How to Make Swirl Designs (and Freebie Examples at End of Tutorial)

This tutorial is for Rebecca!

Start with a basic swirl shape.

For this instance I'm using the swirl Shape from Scrapbooking Cop (I think... I'm sorry but I can't remember where I got it... If you know, please send me an email so I can give proper credit)

Put your shape out as I have.

Now Duplicate this shape (CTRL+J)

Hit CTRL+T on your Keyboard (Transform) to transform the duplicated image.

Do a Right Mouse Click over the Duplicated Image and cilck on "Flip Horizontal"

Lign your images up like I have here.

Highlight both layers and Merge them together (CTRL+E)

Take the Marquee tool (1) and draw a square around the bottom half of the image (2)

On your keyboard press "CTRL+X (CUT) to delete the bottom half.

Here is what we have so far...

Duplicate this! (CTRL+J)

Now we'll do the CTRL+T and do a right mouse click over the layer and "Flip Vertical"

Lign the middle sections up.

Now Highlight both layers and Merge (CTRL+E)

Duplicate your Merged Layers.

Let's Transform (CTRL+T) (1)

and now we want to Rotate it by 30%

Simply type in 30 (2) and hit Enter

Now Highlight both Layers and Duplicate them (Right Mouse click over the Layers and say "Duplicate Layers")

Now we want to Rotate these.

First do "CTRL+T (Transform)

Right Mouse Click Over the Image and then at the Top do as we did in the previous step, but this time type in 60.

Hit Enter when you're done.

Now Highlight the last 2 Layers and Duplicate them again.

(Right Mouse click over the Layers and say "Duplicate Layers")

Now we want to Rotate these.

First do "CTRL+T (Transform)

Right Mouse Click Over the Image and then at the top do as we did in the previous step, using the same number, 60. Hit Enter when you're done.

Highlight all the Layers and Merge them (CTRL+E)

Now duplicate this newly Merged layer (CTRL+J)

Let's Do the Transform (CTRL+T)

Now go to the top as you did in the previous steps, but let's rotate only by 15 this time.

Hit Enter when you're done.

Highlight both these Layers and you're done.

I'll show you how to do another swirl. At the end I'll show you examples with styles applied.

Here is a basic shape

I believe this shape is from the same set I used above.

I transformed this shape a bit. (CTRL+T) and moved the width in a bit.

Once you have it transformed you'll want to duplicate the layer (CTRL+J)

Now we'll flip the duplicated layer.

CTRL+T (Transform)

Right mouse click over the Image and choose "Flip Vertical"

Hit Enter.

It should already be lined up like I have it here.

If not, line it so you like how it looks.

Highlight both of these layers and merge them (CTRL+E)

Duplicate this newly merged layer (CTRL+J)

Transform (CTRL+T)

Right Mouse click over Image and "Flip Vertical"

Now bring the new layer down and match up the insides as I have here.

Highlight both these layers and merge (CTRL+E)

Duplicate the image (CTRL+J)

Transform (CTRL+T)

Now go to the top and Rotate Image (as we did previously). For this swirl let's move it 30%.

Type in 30 and hit Enter when you're done.

Highlight both these layers and merge them (CTRL+E)

Duplicate the layer you just rotated (CTRL+J)

Now we need to rotate it... Transform (CTRL+T)

Do as you did in the previous step and rotate the image by 30.

Hit Enter when you're done.

Highlight both the layers and merge (CTRL+E)

That's it. They are now ready to add some styles too.

Here are some I've added Styles to.

You can download these to see how they look.

Download the examples here!

Shading & Highlighting using the Burn & Dodge Tools - Freebie Supplies

2011-03-29T06:55:00.000-07:00

Shading & Highlighting using the Burn & Dodge Tools...
This tutorial was written for Barry, who asked me about shading with the Burn & Dodge.
If you'd like me to do a tutorial for you, please email me at justcreations@ymail.com and I'll do my best for you!
I will be doing another tutorial on how to shade and highlight another way. Stay tuned!!! :)

You can download the Button Template used in this tutorial so you can follow along.

It contains the PSD, PSP and PNG formats.

It is also CU OK.

Download template here!

We need to color the button first.

We're going to use the Blend Options for this tutorial (I'll do another tutorial using the "Image - Fill" way)

Double click on the Button Layer Thumbnail (as indicated by the arrow)

This will bring up the Blend Options.

Go to the Color Overlay and choose a color you like.

Click OK when you're done.

We need to flatten the layer we just added the color to.

(the reason we need to do this is because the Burn/Dodge will not show up if you have Blend Options added to the layer.

Duplicate the Button layer you just added the color to.

Add a blank New Layer directly below the Duplicated Button Layer (as indicated by the arrows)

Highlight both these layers and Merge them Visibly (CTRL+E)

Choose the Burn Tool (1)

Choose a soft brush (2)

Put the Range to Midtones (3)

Exposure should be 50%

Make sure you're on the colored Button (1)

Take your brush and go around the edges of the button (2)

and around the middle holes of the button (3)

The burn tool might be more then you want so you'll want to lower the opacity of the layer (1)

using the Opacity bar (2). Put it to where you think it looks best on your button.

The shading is done (1)

Now highlight the bottom Button (original) layer. Highlight the layer you just did the shading on and the duplicated original layer (2) and merge these (CTRL+E)

Duplicate your merged image (1) so we can add some highlights (dodge)

We're going to add the highlights to the bottom of the button.

Now choose the Dodge Tool (located in the Fly Out with the Burn tool)

Use the settings as I have

Soft Brush

Range: Midtones

Exposure: 50%

Lower the opacity of the layer you just higlighted until you like how it looks (1)

Highlight the First Button and Second Button you worked on and Merge them (CTRL+E)

Now we need to color the Shadow layer (1)

Double click on the Shadow Layer (2) to bring up the Blend Mode

Go to Color Overlay and choose a darker shade of the color you used for the Button.

Click OK when you're done.

Now we'll soften the highlights that are in the ridges of the button (1)

Go to the Highlight layer that is just for the ridges (2) (Turn off the layer just to see if you're on the right layer, turn it on again when you're sure you're on the right one)

Change the Blend Mode to "Soft Light" (3)

That's it...

NOTE: The highlight (half moon) that you see above can be altered if you think it's too harsh.

Simply go to this layer and change the Blend Mode to "Soft Light" or ???

You will need to play with these settings depending on the color and/or pattern you use for the button.

Each Pattern and Color needs to be played with until you like what you see...

Also, you can lower the opacity to make the highlight seem more realistic... The way I have it is to make the button appear as if it's glass.

I would love to see what you do with this tutorial.

Justie

justcreations@ymail.com

Thank you!

Here is the Template I created for this tutorial.

It is CU friendly.

Download it here!

Coloring an Extracted Greyscale Element using Masks

2011-03-24T15:37:00.000-07:00

Coloring an Extracted Greyscale Element using Masks

This tutorial was written for Rebecca.
She purchased some Extracted Flowers and now wants to add 2 different colors to them.

Open your image.

Duplicate your image as many times as you want differnt colors.

For instance, I want to color this flower 2 different colors so I duplicated my original layer 2 times.

Turn off any layers you're not going to work on right now (1)

Make sure that the layer you're going to work with is highlighted (2)

At the top of the Layer's Pallet is a button with the word Lock right before it. Push this button down (3)

This locks the image so that as you paint it won't spill over to the transparent part of the image.

Choose the color you want to paint with (1)

Choose the Brush Tool (2)

Choose a soft brush size (3)

Change the Mode: to Color (4)

Paint your image with this color

(Don't worry about going into areas that you want another color, we'll fix this in a minute)

Turn off the layer you just worked with and turn back on the next duplicated layer (1)

Lock the Layer Pixels for this layer (2)

Use the same settings with the Brush you did previously but change the color to whatever you'd like to use. Paint the area as I have done here.

Again, don't worry about spilling over to the other layer.

We'll fix that shortly.

Turn off the layer we just worked with (1) and go back to the first layer you worked with.

Turn it back on.(2)

Make sure that the Lock is no longer pushed in.

At the bottom you'll notice a button that says "Add Vector Mask (3).

(I've put a closer view, since it was hidden behind the wording).

This has put a mask on so you can now paint away areas you don't want to show this color.

For me it's going to be the yellow that I don't want in the middle.

Reset your Foreground and Background to Black and White (D on your Keyboard will reset these). (1)

Choose the Brush Tool (2)

Choose a hard brush size (3)

Now simply paint with Black to erase the coloring from the areas you don't want.

If you make a mistake change your foreground color to White

(X on your keyboard switches between your Foreground and Background colors)

and paint with white to bring back the color.

Turn on the next layer.

Add a Vector Mask to this layer. Same steps you used previously.

After you've added the Vector Mask we need to change the Mask so that it hides the green and allows you to paint the green in where you want it.

To do this simply hold the CTRL and hit I (CTRL+I).

The green will be gone and the Mask turned from white to black.

Make sure that White is your Foreground now because we'll have to paint with white to bring in the green coloring.

Paint with white (using the same brush settings as you did previously).

If you make a mistake simply change your White to Black and erase the green.

Drag this layer below the first layer (the yellow painting).

(Remember to grab and hold down the Layer Thumbnail to do this) (1)

If you look at the flower it doesn't look quite right yet. (2)

We're going to blend in the edges now to make it more realistic.

To do this we need to click once on the Layer Mask Thumbnail of the top layer to make it active (3)

Now go to the top menu and choose "Filter - Blur - Guassian Blur"

Choose a slight blur. Just enough so that it blurs out the edges a bit.

Here I've used 10.

(My Image is 3600x3600 300 DPI so you will need to adjust according to the size of your image)

After you're happy with the above steps choose the bottom layer and hold down the Shift Key.

Click on the Top layer.

This will highlight all of them (as shown above).

Merge them by using the CTRL+E.

It looks nice... But, we're not quite done.

Let's add some shading to the flower.

Duplicate your merged layer (1)

Lock your Transparent Pixels again (2)

Choose the Burn Tool (1)

Choose Midtones from the Range

Choose 50% from the Exposure (Note, most of the time I lower the Exposure to about 30%.
This always depends on the color and size of your area that you're adding shading to.

You'll want to play with this setting a bit until you like what you see.

That's one reason to duplicate your image.

If you don't like it you can delete it and start over with a new duplicated layer)

Paint with the Burn tool in areas that you want shading to be.

It won't look great at first, but don't worry...

That's why we duplicated the image.

When we're done it will look great!

After you've added your shading, go to the Layer Opacity and turn it to about 32% (1)

(This will depend on what you think looks great).

That's pretty much the basics of painting.

However, there's more you can do to change the appearance.

Highlight both layers and merge them together (CTRL+E)

Now Duplicate these merged layers.

Click on your duplicated layer (1)

Change the Blend Mode to Soft Light. (2)

Notice how it gives it a more vibrant appearance?

Depending on the color you used, the Layer Options you choose from the Blend Mode will change your image appearance.

Play around with it a bit to see the various looks you can come up with.

Here I've added some Inner Shadow.

I chose a color that was a shade darker then the shade I chose for the flower.

I put the size to 250 and the opacity to 37.

I would love to see what you create with this tutorial.

justcreations@ymail.com

Thank you

Justie

Coloring without going into the Transparent areas of the image!

2011-03-22T19:28:00.000-07:00

Coloring without going into the Transparent areas of the image!

For this tutorial we're going to change the color of the flower (which can be downloaded at the bottom) from white to pink (or whatever color you choose).

Open the image in Photoshop

Duplicate your Flower in the Layers Pallet (CTRL+J).

Above the Layer in the Layers pallet you'll see a Lock:

Push this in. It will lock the layers so that you won't paint in the transparent areas of the image.

Choose a color for your flower (1)

Choose the Brush tool (2)

Make sure to choose a very soft brush (3)

Change the Mode to Color (4)

Paint over the area you would like to cover in pink.

Using the Eyedropper pick up the color of the stem.

Use a smaller sized brush and paint over the stem.

That's it...

However, you can also change the way this looks by changing the Blend Mode in the Layers Pallet.

Here are some examples of how the Blend Mode can change the look of the flower.

Blend Mode changed to Linear Burn

Blend Mode changed to Hard Light

Blend Mode changed to Multiply

Blend Mode changed to Soft Light

Now for the freebie

Here is the original file with the examles used changing the Blend Mode.

You can download it here.

I would love to see what you come up with using this tutorial.

Thank you!

justcreations@ymail.com

Create a Paper Bolt Preview - Photoshop Tutorial and a Freebie Template created with this tutorial

2011-03-20T19:49:00.000-07:00

Create a Paper Bolt Preview

(The template I created using this templaet will be at the bottom for you as a Freebie)

Create a new image 3600x3600 300 DPI.

Open the papers you want to use.

I am using 6 Papers for this tutorial.

Copy all the papers into the new image.

Select the Marquee Tool (as shown by the arrow)

Make sure you have make the Ruler viewed on your image.
Since my paper is 12x12 and I have 6 papers I want to create a selection that's 2" so that they will all be evenly split.
(Note: If I was creating 8 Papers I would divide 12 by 8, or if I had 10 papers I would divide 12 by 10, and so forth)

While you're Layer 1 (bottom paper) is highlighted (see example) do a CTRL+J (Duplicate)

If you turn off the bottom layer you'll see your newly created paper selection.

We're going to use this as a template for the remaining papers.

Highlight the next paper (1) and while holding down the CTRL key click on the newly created selection (2). Now do a CTRL+J (Duplicate).

Now do this same thing for the remainder of the papers.

Take the top layer (1) and move it to the right of the screen.
Leave the bottom layer (and the rest of the papers) where they are (2).

Let's delete the paper layers so they are not in the way. Whilte holding down the CTRL key click on each of the paper layers (see example).
Do a Right Mouse click over the top of on of the layers in the Layer Pallet and click on Delete Layers.

Click on the Bottom layer, now while holding down the SHIFT key click on the Top Layer. This should highlight all the layers. (1)
On the top menu bar choose the "Divide equally Horizontal (2).

All of the layers are now evenly distributed between the two ends.

Make sure that your foreground color is set to Black (Simply hit D on your keyboard).

Choose the Rectangle Tool.

Draw a thin line from the very bottom to the very top of the image. (Put this right in the middle between two layers as I have done here.

Now go to the top menu bar and choose "Filter" and choose "Blur" and then "Gaussian Blur".

If you haven't Rasterized your layer this will pop up. Just click OK.

Choose the Radius blur of 47.7 and Click OK.

Duplicate this new layer so that you have enough for each paper as well as the ends. (See arrows)

Put the layers so they are inbetween each layer as shown above.

That's it. You now have a bolt of paper.

I would love to see what you do with this tutorial.

Now for the Freebie...

Here is the Template in PSD, PSP and PNG format.

You may download and use it CU as you wish.

Download here

Thank you!
Justie
Just Creations
justcreations@ymail.com

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2011-03-13T20:17:00.001-07:00

Embossed Paper - Free Photoshop Tutorial and Full Size Examples

2011-03-12T14:30:00.000-08:00

Embossed Paper - Free Photoshop Tutorial and Full Size Examples

Create a new paper 3600x3600 300 DPI

Create a New Image 3600x3600 300 DPI.

Fill the Bottom (Background) layer with the color you want (1)

Create a New Layer above the Background (2)

Go to Shapes = Custom Shape Tool.

Using the Dropdown box (1) choose a custom shape. I'm going to use the Sun Shape (2).

Draw your design how ever you want it on the paper. It doesn't matter what color you choose, it won't show up anyway.

Go to the Layers Pallet and Turn the Fill to 0 on the Layer with the Design (1)

You'll notice the image is gone, don't worry, we'll get that back in the next steps.

Double Click on the Layer Thumbnail to bring up the Blending Options

To do the Emboss Down you would choose the settings I have here.

When it comes to the Shading choose the same color as your background for the highlight and a darker shade of that color for your shading.

Now go to the Inner Shadow and give it a little Inner Shadow (using the same color you did for the Shadow in this step.

That's it for the Emboss - Down.

To do the Up follow the next steps.

Going to the Blend Options as you did in the previous step go to the Bevel and Emboss tab and use the settings I have here.

Use the same color as you chose for the background for the Highlight and a darker shade of the color you chose for the background for the Shading.

That's it for the Embossing - Up.

You can download the examples I used in this tutorial here.

I would love to see what you create with this tutorial

justcreations@ymail.com

Thank you!

Coloring a Gold Coin - Free Photoshop Tutorial and a Word Art Freebie Example using tutorial

2011-02-20T16:35:00.000-08:00

Coloring a Gold Coin - Free Photoshop Tutorial and a Word Art Freebie Example using tutorial

Today I'm going to show you how to add a gold gradient appearance to my Gold Coin that's part of my Luck-of-the-Irish Bundle which can be purchased here: http://www.commercial-use.com/

At the end of this tutorial will be a link to download a Word Art Freebie which uses the gold coin used to make this tutorial.

First open the JC_ShamrockCoin2_Template

Go to the Layer named "Outer Circle" in the Layer's Pallet and do a Right Mouse Click over this layer. Go to Blending Options.

Go to the Gradient Overlay Tab and choose these settings:

Blend Mode: Normal

Opacity: 100%

Style: Linear (Check Align with Layer)

Angle: 111

Scale: 100%

Now double click on the Gradient" and use these settings:

(You'll notice at the bottom of the dialog box there are two boxes. One says "Color" and one says "Location"

Click on the lower part of the color bar. The little box will appear. You can then click on this. You'll notice the boxes in the bottom that are called "Color" and Location" are no longer greyed out. Click in the Locations box and Location #'s I have listed. Then double click on the Color box and enter the color Values I've listed,. You'll need to do this for each and every color and location I have listed. This is easier to do then it sounds... honest! :)

Location: 0 = Color FAEA63

Location: 12 = Color D98C21

Location: 25 = Color D98C21

Location: 36 = Color D98C21

Location: 53 = Color FFC737

Location: 66 = Color F7E6AA

Location: 78 = Color FFCCC3C

Location: 94 = Color FEF6A5

Location: 100 = Color ECECA8

When you're done, click ok.

Now click on the "Satin" tab and use these settings

Blend Mode: Soft Light

Color: White (FFFFFF)

Angle: 19

Distance: 11

Size 14

Contour: Using the Drop Down box and choose "Gausiann"

Now go to Inner Glow and use these settings

Blend Mode: Screen

Opacity: 75%

Noise: 0%

Color: FFFFBE

Technique: Softer

Choke: 84%

Size: 21

Range: 50

Jitter: 0

Now go to Inner Shadow and use these settings

Blend Mode: Linear Burn

Color: A66409

Opacity: 40%

Angle: 120 (Check Use Global Light)

Distance: 5

Choke: 0

Size: 139

Click OK.

Now go the the Layers Pallet and go to the Layer named "Middle Circle" and go to the Blending Options (See first steps on how to get there if you need)

Go the Gradient Tab and use thsee settings
Blend Mode: Normal

Opacity: 100%

Style: Linear (Check Align with Layer)

Angle: -28

Scale: 100%

Now double click on the Gradient color and use the same method as mentioned above to enter these settings:

Location: 0 = Color: B6761D

Location: 24 = Color: F4121

Location: 39 = Color: BF7E1E

Location: 50 = Color: AE6F1D

ocation: 65 = Color: B6761D

Location: 100 = Color: F2AF21

Now go to the Satin tab and use these settings

Blend Mode: Soft Light

Color: White (FFFFF)

Opacity: 50

Angle 19

Distance: 11

Size: 14

Contour: Gaussian

Check Invert

Now go to the Inner Glow tab and use these settings

Blend Mode: Linear Burn

Opacity: 26%

Noise: 0

Color: DA8E22

Technique: Softer

Source :Edge

Choke: 0

Size: 158

Now do a right mouse click on this layer and choose "Copy Layer Style"

Go to "Inner Circle" Layer, do a right mouse click and choose "Paste Layer Style

Go back to the Outer Circle Layer and do a Right Mouse Click and choose "Copy Layer Style"

Go to the Layer "Outer Shamrocks" and do a right mouse click and click "Paste Layer Style"

(We're almost done, honest)

Go to the Inner Shamrock Layer and go the the Blending Options.

Use the same exact gradient & Satin that you used for the Outer Circle.

The last thing is to change the layer properties of all the Highlights to "Soft Light as noted in the example above.

Now for your freebie:

I used the tutorial above for the coins in this WA.

Download this freebie here: http://www.mediafire.com/?7c005s8hax0ai9x

Coloring & Shading a Lineart (scanned) drawing - Photoshop Free tutorial

2011-01-12T21:43:00.000-08:00

Coloring & Shading a Lineart (scanned) drawing - Photoshop Free tutorial

This tutorial was written for Dora Workman who wanted to know how to shade a scanned drawing.

I wanted to get this tutorial out as quickly as possible for her so I found a lineart that I had downloaded free off the Internet. I am not sure who to give credit to for this drawing though. If you know where it came from I would appreciate a note so I can give proper credit.

First open your scanned image in Photoshop. (Note: You'll need to adjust my settings below depending on the size of your image. The image I'm using is not a large one).

Usually your scanned image will be scanned in as a JPG and you'll want to change this. To do this simplly follow these next two steps.

After you've opened your image go to the Layers Pallet and double click on the image thumbnail (1)

This box will pop up. Click OK

Now go to the top menu bar and click on Image, Adjustments and Brightness & Contrast

Change your Brightness and Contrast until the lines are nice and dark.

Now click on the Magic Wand and use the settings I have here.

Tolerance: 32

Anti-alias: Checked

Contiguous: Checked

Click on all the areas that you do not want to be colored. (background) and then either hit the Delete Key or use the CTRL+X.

Now you'll notice how the background area is gone so you don't have to worry about it.

Now Highlight Layer 0 (1)

Use the Magic Wand key (using the same settings as in the previous step)

Click on the first item you want to color. (3)

Here I want to do the face.

After you've selected the area(s) you want to color hold the CTRL key and do a CTRL+J (Copy to the layer above) (2)

Temporarily turn off the Layer 0 (1) so you can see the newly copied area (2 & 3)

Now double click on the Layer Thumbnail of the newly copied area (2) to bring up the Blening Options.

Go to Color Overlay (1)

Double Click on the Color Swatch (2)

Choose a color you like (3)

See your results so far (4)

Now go to Inner Shadow (1)

Double click on the Color Swatch (2)

Choose a color that's a little darker then the color you used for Color Overlay (3)

Once you've chosen the color you want use the settings I have here (except make sure that your settings work for the size of your image)

Blending Mode: Multiply (2)

Distance: (Depending on the size of your image)

Choke: 0

Size: (Depending on the size of your image)

Check the results so far (4)

Now go to Inner Glow (1)

Change the Blend Mode to Multiply (2)

Use the same color you did for Inner Shadow (3)

Change the distance, size, and Opacity for the size of your image (4)

Here are the results so far.

Now follow these previous steps for each and every element that you want to color.

Note: It's a good idea to change each layers name to match what you're donig. For Layer 1 I'll change the name to Face"

Once you've completed the coloring part of the image it's time to add definition to the lines.

Highlight the original image Layer 0 (1)

Using the Magic Wand (with the same settings we used in the previous steps)

carefully click on the black lines of the image (you'll want to zoom in close for this) (2)

Once you're satisfied that you have the lines, while holding down the CTRL key hit the J to duplicate the lines.

Rename this new layer to Lines and drag it to the top of the Layers Pallet

Now Highlight the Lines Thumbnail in the Layers Pallet(1) and while holding down the CTRL Key click on the layer you want to duplicate the lines for. (In this case it's the Nose) (2)

Now click on the Select Menu at the top and choose Modify and Expand

I'm using 5 but you'll want to play with this setting until you get it just outside of the lines (it depends on the size of your image)

Do this for each and every layer you've colored. Make sure to rename each of these so you'll remember what the lines are for. I have renamed them to the layers name with the word Lines after it. (Ex: I used Nose Lines for the colored layer Nose)

Now go to the Blending Mode and go to Color overlay and choose Black.

That's it... This is the finished item.

If you have any suggestions, questions or comments please email me at justcreations@ymail.com

If you would like to see a tutorial please email me with the tutorial you'd like and if I can help I would be more then happy to put one up.

Lighting up Lights - Photoshop Tutorial

2011-01-09T10:50:00.000-08:00

Making Lights - Photoshop Tutorial

For this tutorial I'm using the Marquee Template from my "Hollywood Starter Kit" on sale in my stores listed on the right.

To make lights look like they are lit up (1)

Double click onthe layers icon in the layers pallet (2)

Go to Color Overlay (1)

Use "Normal" for the Blending Mode and double click on the color swatch (2)

Choose ABB5b7

(I chose this color simply because I want the lights to appear like white lights.

If you want another color just alter the colors to what you want throughout this tutorial)

Now go to the Satin Tab. (1)

Make sure the Blending Mode is set to Overlay and double click on the Color Swatch (2)

Choose the same color you chose in the previous step (3)

Use the settings I have here.

Opacity: 100%

Angle 90

Distance: 96

Size: 96

Check both the Anti-aliased and Invert boxes.

Choose the "Ring" Contour (2)

Now go to the Bevel and Emboss tab and use the settings I have.

Style: Inner Bevel

Technique: Smooth

Depth: 100

Direction: Up

Size: 57

Soften: 4

Angle: 120

Altitude: 67

Check the Anti-aliased box

Highlight Mode: Screen (White)

Opacity: 100

Shadow Mode: Overlay (use the same color as you did in the color overlay)

Opacity: 100

Now go to the Inner Glow tab. (1)

Choose "Multiply" for the Blend Mode (2)

Double click on the Color Swatch (3)

Choose the same color you did for the color overlay (4)

Now choose these settings

Opacity: 50

Technique: Softer

Source: Edge

Choke: 0

Size: 20

Range: 50

Jitter: 0

Now go to Outer Glow (1)

Choose "Screen" for the Blending Mode (2)

Choose a lighter color of the one you chose in the color overlay.

HOWEVER, if you're using white like I am then you want to choose a pale yellow. (3)

Technique: Softer

Spread: 0

Size: 27 (4)

NOTE: You want to make sure that your size (4) is not so large that it spills over the edge of your image (5). You just want this to be large enough to notice outside of the lightbulb.

Now go to Inner Shadow and choose these settings

Blend Mode: Overlay

(Use the same color as you did in Color Overlay)

Opacity: 100

Angle: 120

Distance: 27

Choke: 23

Size: 50

End Result!

If you have any questions or comments please email me at justcreations@ymail.com

How to Create Glass for a Snowglobe - Photoshop Tutorial

2010-12-21T15:21:00.000-08:00

How to Create Glass for a Snowglobe - Photoshop Tutorial

For this tutorial I'm going to use my Snowglobe Template (for sale in all my stores - listed to the right)
My image is 3600x3600 300 DPI so if your image doesn't match mine you'll need to adjust the settings to suit your image.

Open Your Image

First we'll want to add a highlight on the globe on the layer right above the globe.

Go to your Shapes toolbar and choose the Custom Shapes

Choose the "Raindrop" shape and make sure that your settings are the same as what I show here.

(Make sure to use White as your shape color)

Draw the shape out so that it's about 1/4 the size of the globe.

While holding down the CTRL key hit the T (Transform).

Do a right mouse click over the top of the new shape and choose "Rotate 90 Clockwise"

Hit Enter.

Do another CTRL+T, this time choose the Warp tool (see arrow on above image).

From the drop down list choose "Arc" Leave the settings as Photoshop has them. Hit Enter.

Do the CTRL+T and Rotate your highlight around until it looks like I have mine.

At the top of your menu you should see a menu tab that says "Filter"

Click on this and from the dropdown menu choose "Blur" and then "Gaussian Blur"

This menu will appear. Just click OK.

Add a blur to your highlight until it looks like mine.

I have used a Radius of 28.0

Rename your Highlight layer to Globe Highlight (1).

Choose "Soft Light" from your Blend Modes (2)

and lower the opacity to 38% (3).

(Or until your highlight barely shows)

Now go back to your Globe layer (1)

and lower the Fill to 0 (2).

You'll notice that your globe disappears. (3)

That's ok, it will be back in the next couple of steps.

Now double click on your Globe Layer Thumbnail to bring up the Blending Options.

First go to "Inner Shadow" and choose Black as your color. Use the same basic settings I have here (depending on the size of your image).
I have the Opacity at 75%
Angle at 120
Use Global Light
Distance at 5
Choke at 0
Size at 250.

Now go to the Inner Glow and change the Blend Mode to "Multiply" Make your color Black and use the settings I have.
Opacity 45%
Noise 0
Technique: Precise
Source: Edge
Choke 0
Size 250

That's it...

Here's the final image on a colored background.

If you have any questions or comments please feel free to email me at justcreations@ymail.com

Adding Realistic Color to Cheeks - Photoshop Tutorial

2010-12-19T09:19:00.000-08:00

Adding Realistic Color to Cheeks - Photoshop Tutorial

Go to the layer you want to add cheeks to.

Here I want to add them to my Nutcrackers Face on my Nutcracker Template (on sale in my stores)

so I've clicked on my Head layer (I don't want the cheeks to go over the eyes, nose or Mustache so I've chosen the layer beneath all of these.

Using your eyedropper (1) choose a color you want for the cheek.

Here I've chosen dc6767

Now choose your "Ellipse Tool" from the Custom Shapes tools.

Draw a circle on his cheek. (It doesn't matter how perfect the circle is since we're going to blur it out.

I renamed my layer to "Cheek" (because I always have many layers in my templates and I want to keep them straight)

Go to the top and choose "Filter" and then "Blur" and then "Gaussian Blur"

(My screen snapshot won't pick up the menus for some reason, sorry)

Choose a Radius that blurs out your image like mine.

Here I've used 50.5 (My image is 3600x3600 so you'll need to adjust this according to the size of your image)

Now Highlight your "Cheek" layer (1) and while holding the CTRL key click on the layer that you want the cheek color to stay on. For me it's the Head (2).

You should now see the marching ants around the layer you want the cheek color to stay on (3)

Go to your top menu and choose "Select" and then "Inverse"

Now while holding down the CTRL key hit "X" (CTRL+X). This will cut all of the cheek that is outside of the head. (If it says "Can't complete because of a computer error" don't worry, that just means that there isn't any of the cheek color that has spilled outside the head layer)

Now go to your Blend Options and choose Hard Light from the drop down menu

(You can play around with the different blend options for various effects)

Here is my final image.

(I also lowered the Opacity in the Layers Pallet to about 75%)

If you have any questions or comments please email me at justcreations@ymail.com

Create a 3D Appearance for a Key Hole - Photoshop Tutorial

2010-12-16T10:54:00.000-08:00

For this tutorial I'm using my "Door Handle" template which can be found in my stores.

The image is 300 DPI and the size is 428x989

If your image is different them mine you'll need to adjust the settings I have to suit your image.

First open the image you're working on.

Draw out yourbasic shape of your Keyhole (1)

Rename your Layer to Key Hole (2)

Make sure your Key Hole layer is active in the Layers Pallete (1)

Go to your Fill and lower this to 0 (2)

You'll notice that the Key Hole has disappeared (3).

We wanted this to happen. It will be back after the next couple steps.

Double click on your Key Hole layer to bring up the Blend Options.

Go to your Bevel & Emboss tab and use the settings I have.

Stye: Emboss

Technique: Smooth

Depth: 100

Direction: Down

Size: 5

Soften: 0

Shading:

Angle 120

Altitude 30

(Check Use Global Light)

Highlight Mode: Screen (Use a lighter color then the color of the image that the Keyhole is on top of)

Opacity: 75%

Shadow Mode: Multiply (I used black but you can use a shade that's darker then the image the keyhole is on top of)

Opacity: 75%

Now go to the Inner Glow Tab.

Change the Blend Mode to Multiply.

Put the Opacity at 75%

Leave the Noise at 0

Make sure that it says "Softer" for the Technique and "Outer" for the Source.

Put the size at 40.

I am using black for the color but you can use a shade that's darker then the image the keyhole will be on top of.

Now go to the Inner Shadow tab and use the settings I have.

Blend Mode: Multiply

Opacity: 75

Angle 120

(Check the Use Global Light)

Distance 14

(Do not use choke)

Size 16

Here is the final image.

Make a Heart from Scratch & Give it a Highlight

2010-12-13T00:19:00.000-08:00

Start with a new image.

My image is 3600x3600 300 DPI.

Choose the color of your heart. I've chosen 8e0202

Go to your Custom Shape tool and choose the "Custom Shape Tool"

Make sure your settings are like mine. (If you don't do these, when you use the Warp tool you'll find that the edges become blurry very quickly, but leaving these settings will allow you to warp and play around as much as you like without blurring the edges).

I'm using the "Raindrop Custom Shape"

Draw out the shape as I have here.

We want to flip this shape now.

A quick way to do this is to do a CTRL+T (Transform shortcut).

Do a right mouse click over the shape and choose "Flip Vertical" from the menu and hit Enter.

Do another CTRL+T and this time choose "Warp" from the menu.

Pull the handles around until you get a shape that is fairly close to this.

It takes a little getting used to, but once you get the hand of this you'll love the warp too.

Once you have the shape you like you'll want to duplicate that layer. You can highlight the layer you're on and do a right mouse click and choose "Duplicate Layer" or you can use the shortcut key which is CTRL+J.

Now we want to filp this duplicated layer so it's opposite of our original shape.

Do a CTRL+T and choose "Flip Horizontal" from the menu. Hit Enter.

Zoom in at 100% on your image and make sure that the bottom points match up.

Your heart shape is now complete. Hightlight both the shapes in the Layers Pallet and do a CTRL+E (Merge)

Now to add the highlight. Going back to your Custom Shape tool, use the same settings we did in the earlier step, but this time make sure that your color is white.

Draw your shape out like I have here.

We need to flip the shape sideways. Do a CTRL+T and then do a right mouse click over the new shape. Choose "Rotate 90 CW" and hit Enter.

Now do another CTRL+T and choose the settings above. The first is the Warp setting and the second is the Arc from the drop down menu. Use the settings in the Arc that Photoshop has preset.

Move the highlight into the corner as I've done here.

It's a good idea to rename your layers. (Well, it is for me) :)

Now highlight the "Highlight" layer in the layers Pallet

Go to the Filter, Blur, Gaussian Blur (It will ask you if you want to Rasterize your layer, say yes)

Choose the amount of blur you want to give your highlight. I have mine 24 because of the size of my image. Adjust yours according to your image. Just make sure that it has about the same amount of blur that mine does in the example above.

Now you can go the Opacity and change that to about 75%.

Now we'll add some shading. Double click on the Heart Layer to bring up the Blending Options.

Go to the "Inner Shadow" tab and choose a color that is a little darker shade then the heart.

If your image is as large as mine, use the settings I have here. If it's smaller, adjust so it looks about the same.

Now do the same thing with the "Inner Glow" except, change the "Blend Mode" to "Multiply".

Here is the final result of my heart with the highlight.

Here I've shrunken the highlight a bit.

If you have any questions or suggestions please email me at justcreations@ymail.com

Coloring & Shading with Photoshop - Tutorial 2

2010-12-11T01:56:00.000-08:00

Coloring & Shading with Photoshop - Tutorial 2 

This tutorial will get into a little more depth about coloring & shading.

I'm using my "Bear with Heart 3 Template" It's a 3600x3600 300 DPI Image so if your image is a different size you'll need to adjust the settings to suit the size of your image.

Once you've opened your image, Go to the Layers Pallet and double click on the layer thumbnail that you want to start with.

I usually start with the largest part of the image. In this case it's the Bear Body.

Go the the "Color Overlay" (1) and choose "Normal" for your "Blend Mode" and choose a color you want (2). (I'll do another tutorial on recoloring if you want the pattern to show thru... this tutorial is simply for coloring from a plain greyscale element)

Now go to the "Inner Shadow" (1) and loot at the settings (2).

I have left the "Blending Mode" at "Multiply" and used a darker color than the one I used for the "Color Overlay". I left the "Distance" and "Choke" as they were set by Photoshop. I put the "Size" as large as I could (since this is such a large image but you'll need to adjust according to the size of your image).

Now go to the "Inner Glow" (1). Change the "Blending Mode" to "Multiply" (2). (You can use other settings, if you're not happy with how it appears; just play around with these to see the different effects you get).

You can see the settings I used here to give it some depth.

I used the same color I used in the "Inner Shadow" and put the size up as high as I could, but I put the Opacity fairly low. (Just so it gave it a nice subtile appearance)

If you are not quite happy with the color that the image is so far, you can play around with the "Satin" tab. (1) Here I used "Multiply" (from the "Blending Mode") and used the same exact color as I did in the "Color Overlay" This gives it a darker appearance.
Now that you have the hang of this so far, finish the rest of your element layers using the same steps as listed above.
Do not do these for the nose or anything you'd like to give a "Catchlight to"
We'll do those in the next steps.

Double click on the "Nose" (or the element that you want to give the Catchlight appearance to)

Go to "Bevel & Emboss" and use the settings I have.

Style: Inner Bevel

Technique: Smooth

Depth: 100

Size: 88

Soften: 8

Shading

Angle: 90

Altitude: 80

Check the Anti-aliased box

Highlight Mode: Screen (Opacity 80%)

Shadow Mode: Multiply (Opacity 75%) and using the same color as I did in the "Inner Shadow" and "Inner Glow"

Now go to the "Contour" tab and for the "Contour" choose the "Half Round" contour.

Make sure that your Anti-aliased is checked.

Now we'll do the Eye Iris. Double click on this layer.

Go to the "Color Overlay" and click on the little color box next to the "Blending Mode"

For the Iris I chose 1F3970 as the color.

Now we'll use the "Satin" tab. Make sure your "Blend Mode" says "Soft Light". Then choose the color you want (I used the same color as I did for the "Color Overlay")

I put the Opacity at 100%

Angle 135

Distance 117

Size 129

Check the "Anti-aliased" and the

Invert buttons.

I used the Cove Shallow Contour.

Now go to the "Bevel and Emboss" tab and choose these settings

Style: Inner Bevel

Technique: Smooth

Depth: 100%

Direction: Up

Size: 88

Soften: 8

Shading -

Angle: 120

(Check the Use Global Light box)

Altitude 67

Gloss Contour: Cove Inverted

Highlight Mode: Screen (white)

Opacity 100%

Shadow Mode: Color Burn (Using a darker color than you used for the "Color Overlay")

Opacity 20%

Now go to the "Inner Shadow" tab and change the "Blending Mode" to "Color Burn" Use the same color you did for the "Bevel & Emboss" "Shadow".

Opacity 30%

Angle 120

Check the "Use Global Light"

Distance: 20

Choke 25

Size 5

Now go to the "Inner Glow" tab and change the Blend Mode to "Multiply"

Use the same color you did for the "Inner Shadow"

Opacity 34

Noise 0

Technique: Softer

Source: Edge

Choke 0

Size 32

Now we need to do the whites of his eyes. Double click on that layer.

Go to the "Color Overlay" and choose a color. I chose a color that wasn't really white. F3F2F2

Now go to the "Bevel & Emboss" tab and use these settings

Style: Inner Bevel

Technique: Smooth

Depth: 154

Size 45

Soften 0

Angle 150

Altitute 75

Gloss Contour: Cove Inverted

Check the Anti-aliased button

Highlight Mode: Linear Dodge (Add)

Opacity 40%

Shadow Mode: Multiply

Opacity 100%

Check the Contour tab and choose the "Half Round" Contour.

Now that we have that done, let's shade the image even more.(To help give it a more 3D effect)

Double click on the "Lines" layer in the Layers Pallet. (The outlines)

Go to the "Outer Glow" tab and change the Blend Mode to "Multiply"

From here you'll have to play with the settings to see what looks best.

For me, with this image I used the settings as follows.

I used the same color as I did for "Inner Shadow"

Opacity 75

Noise 0

TEchnique: Softer

Spread 11

Size 213

Once you're done you'll notice that the glow is outside your element.

Don't worry, this will be fixed in the next couple steps.

Over to the right side of the lines layer (in the Layers Pallet) you just worked on you'll see a little fx.

Do a right mouse click over this and you'll see (towards the bottom) "Create Layer" Left Click on this.

Now your "Outer Glow" has become it's own layer.

So, now we can fix the spill over.

Make sure to highlight this layer (click once on the layer) Now locate the layer that the lines are over.

In this case it's for the "Bears Body"

While holding down the CTRL key, click on the Bears Body Layer (as shown by the arrow)

You should now see marching ants around the edge of the bear (or your image).

At the top of Photoshop you should see a menu that says "Select" Click on this and a drop down menu should appear. Click on the one that says "Inverse" (towards the top).

Make sure that your "Lines Outer Glow" is still the highlighted layer.

Once you're sure, do a CTRL+X (this will cut the spillover from your image)

Here are the results.

I've done the Mouth, Eyes and Etc the same way (Outer Glow).

Once you're done with this play around with the Outer Glow's Layer Opacity (in the Layers Pallet right above the Layers Pallet on the Right Hand Side). You can adjust the opacity until you get your desired appearance.

Here's my final image.

If you have any questions or comments please email me at justcreations@ymail.com

How to Recolor an Element (Shading & make it appear 3D) - Using Photoshop

2010-12-10T09:48:00.000-08:00

How to Recolor an Element (Shading & make it appear 3D)

Open up your image.

The image I'm working on is my "Basket Template" It's a 3600x3600 300 DPI image.

Double Click on the Layer you want to recolor in the Layers Pallet

This will bring up the Blending Mode.

Check the "Color Overlay" and choose the color of your choice.

See how using "Normal" (1) will make the color take over the element itself and not let the pattern show through? (2)

It just doesn't look nice. So, we're going to fix that.

Change the "Blending Mode" to "Color" (1) from the dropdown list.
Now you can see a big difference (2).
The pattern is actually showing through.
But we're going to make it look even better.

If you aren't really happy with the color the last step gave you, you can fix it by checking "Satin" (1)

Choose from the "Blending Mode" drop down list to get different effects.

Here I've chosen "Soft Light" (2) from the dropdown list (to help brighten the color a little bit)

I used the same exact color as I did in "Color Overlay" (I liked how it looked but you can play around with the colors to get the shade you like best) (3) shows the results so far.
Now to give it life like shading.

Go to "Inner Shadow" (1) and choose a darker color than you used for the "Color Overlay" (2).
Leave the "Blend Mode" on "Multiply".
Now play around with the "Size", "Distance" and "Choke" utnil you get something you like.
Here I've left the "Choke" at 0, the "Distance" at 5 but put the "Size" up to 213.
(This is a 3600x3600 image so if yours is smaller you'll need to adjust accordingly).

Now for a little more shading.

Now do the same with the Inner Glow (1) that you did in the last step.
Make sure to change the Blend Mode to either "Multiply" or "Normal" (2)
Though you can play around and see if you like one of the other settings from the dropdown list more.

Here are the results so far (3)

One final note.

When you're coloring the back of something you'll want ot make sure it's darker (3) so it appears further away (and/or shaded).
To do this, simply play with your settings under the "Inner Shadow" and Inner Glow" and change the "Colors", "Distance", "Size" Etc (2) to get the exact results you want.
Here is my final image.

I used the darker color(shading) effect on the back and the lighter coloring effect on the front to give it a more realistic appearance.
If you ahve any questions or suggestions please feel free to drop me an email justcreations@ymail.com

Just Creations Tutorials

Drawing Simplified

Cheat Sheets - Shading/Shadows & Highlights: Created for Wilma4Ever.com

Adding Shadows & Highlights to bring life to an image.

How to Extract an Element from a Photograph - 1

Creating a Glossy Frame

Create a Flower Decoration - Plus Free Supplies for Tutorial provided!

Make a Glossy Button - Template Supplies Included for Free (CU OK)

How to Make Swirl Designs (and Freebie Examples at End of Tutorial)

﻿Shading & Highlighting using the Burn & Dodge Tools - Freebie Supplies

Coloring an Extracted Greyscale Element using Masks

Coloring without going into the Transparent areas of the image!

Create a Paper Bolt Preview - Photoshop Tutorial and a Freebie Template created with this tutorial

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